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After several guided tours, three Milford Sound cruises, and a little over a year of writing about the area for Milford Sound Luxe Tours, I decided I wanted a different kind of Fiordland and Milford Sound experience.
While my previous visits had given me a deep appreciation for the area, this time I wanted to wake up in the heart of Fiordland National Park, surrounded by wilderness native wildlife.
Fiordland has always been a special place for me and my family. My dad trained there with the wildlife service (now Department of Conservation), working the trap lines through the rugged terrain, and both my parents were involved in the first Takahē captive raring project.
Growing up with their stories of the area and having experienced it myself over the years, a Fiordland camping trip with my partner and our rooftop tent seemed like the perfect way to finish off a busy 2024.
Key Takeaways
My holiday was a mixture of the Milford Track, camping along the Milford Road and some time spent in beautiful Te Anau.
Book campsites and the Milford Track water taxi well in advance, especially during summer.
Previous knowledge of the area enhances the camping and hiking experience.
Bring all your own water and cooking supplies with you for camping.
Consider an early start for the Milford Track day walk.
Do not forget to bring insect repellent.
Rain in Milford Sound adds to its magic rather than detracting.
Fiordland’s remoteness can make even a short trip feel like a longer escape.
Eglinton Valley Camp
We spent our first two nights at Eglinton Valley Camp at Kobs Flat. Until Milford Sound, Eglinton Valley Camp is the only fully serviced campground between Te Anau and Milford Sound.
Having written enough articles about summer booking essentials, I'd taken my own advice and booked well in advance - a decision that proved wise when we saw the "Fully Booked" sign upon arrival.
What struck me immediately was the difference in birdlife only a five-hour drive down the road from my Dunedin home.
Instead of sparrows and blackbirds, we were waking up to native robins and tomtits investigating our camping site. Kākāriki (native parakeets) were also foraging in the trees right beside our tent - my first time seeing these rare birds in the wild.
One morning, we witnessed peak Fiordland entertainment when a weka snuck up on a phone-distracted camper and pecked them on the toe.
With flushing toilets, showers, communal kitchen, a small number of sites, and surrounded by bird-filled forests, it was a gentle introduction to our Milford Road camping experience.
Milford Track Day Walk
The highlight of our trip was walking a section of the famous Milford Track, which begins with a short water taxi trip from Deep Water Basin to Sandfly Point.
Having booked our Fiordland Outdoors water taxi well in advance (essential in summer), we arrived early at Deepwater Basin to find the car park already filling up. This free carpark is located just before the main Milford Sound carpark and cruise terminal. It was clearly very popular, so we were lucky to find a parking spot.
We were booked onto the 9am water taxi, which whisked us across the water to Sandfly Point in just a few minutes, and we stepped off into complete Milford Sound serenity. It was raining - exactly what we’d hoped for.
We let the other hikers move ahead so we could experience the track in solitude for a while.
Like every Fiordland local says, there is just something magical about Milford Sound in the rain, with its mist-shrouded mountains and waterfall-clad slopes.
We listened to the rain falling softly on the surrounding forest and absorbed the stillness for a while before heading along the trail. We took our time, stopping often to watch the birdlife. Robins, fantails, tūī, and tomtits flitted around us as we went.
At one stage, we paused with another couple to watch a tūī performing its entire repertoire of songs, all of us standing in silent appreciation until it finally flew away.
After about 1.5 hours of easy walking, we reached Giant Gate Falls. The waterfall thundered away while a resident weka patrolled the area, weaving between visitors who'd stopped for photos.
We crossed the swing bridge and continued on for another half hour before heading back for the water taxi, finding that keeping moving was the best defense against the notorious Milford Sound sandflies.
Packing Recommendations
For anyone considering this walk, it’s an easy part of the track but proper preparation is essential.
We carried water, snacks, insect repellent (absolutely crucial), sunscreen, and waterproof jackets. We'd also taken antihistamines that morning to reduce the itch from the inevitable sandfly bites (sandfly point is very aptly named).
The track is well-maintained and easy to follow, but sturdy shoes are a must.
Cascade Creek
After our Milford Track adventure, we headed back along the Milford Road to Cascade Creek campground for two nights. This DOC campsite offered a more rustic experience - just long-drop toilets and whatever supplies you bring with you.
Each morning, we watched a weka family with chicks foraging in the distance. Robins continued to be our constant companions - one particularly bold fellow even hopped inside our car to investigate.
While here, we also did the Lake Gunn nature walk, a blissful 45-minute loop track that begins near the campsite. It was another completely serene stroll through a forest of moss-covered trees with tomtits and fantails following us along as we went.
Celebrating the New Year
We ended our trip with New Year's Eve in Te Anau, staying at the Te Anau Top 10 Holiday Park. We had some delicious Pizza and Gelato from the nearby Paradiso Pizzeria and later enjoyed the impressive fireworks display over Lake Te Anau.
The following morning, we made one final stop at the Milford Road Merchant, where we found a beautiful watercolour art print of a South Island robin to take home. We also took the opportunity to grab a coffee and freshly-baked muffin before heading back to Dunedin.
For Those Inspired to Follow a Similar Path
If you're considering a similar adventure, here's what worked well for us:
Book everything well in advance, especially in summer.
Consider starting with a day trip or guided day tour to learn about the area before camping - knowing about what you’re seeing makes the experience so much richer.
Pack for all weather conditions - Fiordland's weather is famously changeable.
Plan your Milford Track day walk for the early morning to ensure parking availability.
Allow plenty of time at each location to properly take it all in.
As we drove back to Dunedin, we felt that unique satisfaction that comes from a holiday well spent.
Although we were only away for five nights, because of the immersive scenery, peacefulness, and remoteness of Fiordland National Park, it felt like we had been away for weeks rather than days, and those are always the best kinds of holidays.
Whether on a day tour or camping trip, Fiordland National Park offers a chance to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect with nature in one of New Zealand’s most beautiful places.
I’m grateful for having experienced Milford Sound in different ways over the years.
Previous day trips, tours, and cruises gave me the knowledge to truely appreciate everything we were experiencing during our time away.
FAQs - Frequently Asked Questions
How far in advance should I book campsites and the Milford Track day walk?
Book at least 2-3 months ahead. Some campsites and water taxi times book out even earlier. You can easily book everything online.
What facilities are available at different campsites?
Eglinton Valley Camp has a communal kitchen, flushing toilets, showers, and a small shop to buy very basic supplies like insect repellent (you’ll still need to bring all your food and utensils for cooking if staying here).
All other campsites along Milford Road are basic DOC campsites with just long-drop toilets.
You’ll need to boil any water from these sites before drinking or bring your own water with you. You’ll also need something like a gas cooker to cook on, and all your pots, pans, and cooking utensils.
In Milford Sound, there is the Milford Sound Lodge, which has a communal kitchen, showers, and flushing toilets. This campground is only available to those in campervans or wanting hotel room or cabin accommodation.
Can I do the Milford Track day walk and Milford Sound Cruise on the same day?
Yes, but plan carefully. Book a morning water taxi for the Milford Track day walk (earliest is 8:30am), and book an afternoon cruise (around 3:30pm).
The water taxi does return trips every half hour from 12pm. It then takes around 25-minutes to walk from the Deep Water Basin carpark to the cruise terminal, so keep an eye on the time.
What should I pack for the Milford Track day walk?
Essential items include insect repellent, waterproof jacket, sturdy shoes, water, snacks, and sunscreen. Consider antihistamines for sandfly bites.
Is camping on Milford Road suitable for first-time visitors?
While camping is wonderful, I'd recommend doing a day trip or guided tour first to learn about the area. This knowledge greatly enhances the camping experience.
I’d also recommend a prior visit or tour for those wanting to do the Milford Track day walk, as the walk would not have been as enjoyable and immersive without understanding the area first.
How can I make the most of a visit to Milford Sound?
Slow down and take time to appreciate what’s around you. Seeing New Zealand's rare native birds in their natural habitat is a privilege - in much of the country, many of these species simply can't survive anymore.
Fiordland National Park is one of the few easily accessible places where you can still encounter them in the wild. Whether you're self-driving or taking a tour, plan well so you don’t need to rush.
Take time to observe the incredible scenery and wildlife that make New Zealand special.